Friday 3/21/08 - Saturday 3/22/08
What a great way to end this fantastic trip - a visit to the Safari - Mikumi National Park. Among many elephants, giraffes, hippos we were lucky to spot a beautiful lion cub. Enjoy photos!
Day 8: TASAF projects
Thursday 3/20/08
Tanzanian Social Action Fund (TASAF) is a government institution to empower communities, facilitate their participation in planing and implementation of interventiosn that would improve their livelihood. Their budgets are financed from three main sectors: IDA, Government and Community.
Some of their achievement include:
- 2,600 classrooms
- 670 teachers houses
- 312 out-patient department
- 204 community access roads
We've traveled to couple of their project sites - Kisutu, a tailoring and hand craft; Yombo - a poultry production. Both places employe people affected by HIV.
Tanzanian Social Action Fund (TASAF) is a government institution to empower communities, facilitate their participation in planing and implementation of interventiosn that would improve their livelihood. Their budgets are financed from three main sectors: IDA, Government and Community.Some of their achievement include:
- 2,600 classrooms
- 670 teachers houses
- 312 out-patient department
- 204 community access roads
We've traveled to couple of their project sites - Kisutu, a tailoring and hand craft; Yombo - a poultry production. Both places employe people affected by HIV.
Day 7: 2nd visit at UDSM
Wednesday 3/19/08
This time at UDSM discussions were focused on the social entrepreneurship. Dr. Olomi, Director & Senior Lecturer from the Entrepreneurship Center shared key opportunities and challenges in Tanzania and Bruce Bachenheimer on the social entrepreneurship in the US.
Three main pillars of Social Entrepreneurship:
1. Sociality
2. Market Orientation
3. Innovation
Here is a slide of examples of SE in Tanzania:
Images: Professor Bruce Bachenheimer and Donath Olomi during presentations.
This time at UDSM discussions were focused on the social entrepreneurship. Dr. Olomi, Director & Senior Lecturer from the Entrepreneurship Center shared key opportunities and challenges in Tanzania and Bruce Bachenheimer on the social entrepreneurship in the US.Three main pillars of Social Entrepreneurship:
1. Sociality
2. Market Orientation
3. Innovation
Here is a slide of examples of SE in Tanzania:
Images: Professor Bruce Bachenheimer and Donath Olomi during presentations.
Day 7: Ministry of Industry, Trade and Marketing
Wednesday 3/19/09
Ministry of Industry, Trade and Marketing is a very modern building. We were given three different presentations - about Policy and Planning, then the role of Small Medium Enterprises (SME), and about SIDO-Small Industries development organization.
Slides screen shots about the role of the government, civil society and weak BDS (Business Development services).
Ministry of Industry, Trade and Marketing is a very modern building. We were given three different presentations - about Policy and Planning, then the role of Small Medium Enterprises (SME), and about SIDO-Small Industries development organization.
Slides screen shots about the role of the government, civil society and weak BDS (Business Development services).
Day 7: TechnoServe
Wednesday 3/19/08
Yet another busy and an exciting day! Morning started with Alex Mkindi, the Deputy Country Director of TechnoServe in Tanzania who traveled for 13 hours just to meet with us. Alex discussed TechnoServe and its role in private sector development in Tanzania.
TechnoServe is an NGO based in Washington DC that has 39 years of experience in Latin America and Africa. They help entrepreneurs to realize their business ideas and create better communities. They recently received a $46.9 million grant from the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation as well as a grant from Google.org
Their philosophy is: “Private enterprise can drive economic growth and positive social change. A hand up is better than a hand out.”
TechnoServe applied tailored approaches to three African industries to sustain and grow industry competitiveness:
1. Banana: COLLAPSED: (Kenya) It’s value chain was long and involved several middlemen which was distancing the farmer from the value received farther down the chain
2. Coffee: UPGRADED: (Tanzania) The coffee value chain was compact, resulting in a low-quality commodity product, which was then sold through the auction for lower prices
3. Cashews: RATIONALIZED: (Mozambique) The cashew value chain needed to be “rationalized”, it was a confused value chain under great scrutiny and pressure, with much of the raw product being exported before any value addition
Most farmers gained their skills from their predecessors and new agricultural techniques were rarely applied. Farmers spend most of their income early and don’t safe money for hard times. There is a lack of processing facilities. They don't benefit from the whole crop. For instance they only use cashew nut but the fruit-apple that can produce jams, liquor, or chutneys goes to waste. Or they sell raw cashews to India where processing facilities enable businesses to use shell liquid to produce various end products. But farmers in Tanzania don’t benefit from this additional value. TechnoServe is there to help farmers to address and improve these issues.
TechnoServe works with local governments and helps to change the value chain of these industries as well as educating farmers. They formed farmer’s business schools - educate them on negotiating skills, efficient packing of perishable goods, transporting goods without using middlemen, maintaining the cashew nuts trees or on diversifying new crop (e.g. growing sesame seeds during off-season.) As a result, farmers would get higher income, parents can send their children to schools and communities would improve.
Image: Alex Mkindi during the presentation; Cashew apple and nut (Did you know that cashew trees last for 25 years?)
Day 6: University of Dar
Tuesday 3/18/08
We spend the whole day at the University of Dar es Salaam (UDSM). Their campus is located 13 km northwest of the city center and sits on 1,600 acres of vast greenery where monkeys are a common sight. Students sitting in groups under trees share course materials that are often not available to them. We had a short bus tour of the campus and its history. In 1960 UDSM used to be a part of University of East Africa (others located in Kenya and Uganda) with a focus on law. Even now UDSM has the largest law faculty in the region. We visited Entrepreneurship department that was established in 1999. UDSM has around 20,000 enrolled students, 2500 post-graduates, 35% of them are women. 16% of post-graduate students run their own business. They also have a very high graduation rate - 80%. In 2007 they established the Alumni Society and we learn Reginald Mengi is a member.
The school needs faculty staff and encourages post-graduate students to teach. To become a full professor you need to follow these stages: 1) tutor assistant - usually MBA students with a minimum GPA of 4 (out of 5) 2) assistant lecturer with a Master degree 3) Lecturer with a PhD. 4) Senior lecture 5) associate professor 6) full professor.
Current job demands in Tanzania are in accounting and finance. Marketing department is not much developed; they lack graduates and don't offer many courses. They should expand this program considering they are in high demand for quality customer service.
Our first lecture by Mr. Kingazi was on "Opportunities and Challenges for Private sector Development in Tanzania. Here is a brief history of private sectors since Tanzania's Independence:
1961: Tanganyika
1964: Tanganyika + Zanzibar + Pemba = Tanzania
1967-1985: Socialism
1986-1995: Economic Liberalization and privatization.
1996 - Present: Implementation of Private Sector strategy. Private sector recognized.
They formed Business Trade Associations overseeing private sectors and government policy. Some important facts about different sectors:
1) Agriculture - 46% of country's GDP
- Beef processing in demand (currently only 1)
- Poultry Industry - 3 processing plants in place
- Beekeeping - problems with quality control, no standards
2) Mining 3% (poor managing; handled by Anglo-American group)
3) Tourism 25% (one of the most growing sectors)
4) Manufacturing 9%
5) Telecommunication
6) Banking - only 9% of eligible are served
7) Education & Health services - emerging markets
There is an agency Tanzania Investment Center (TIC) - investors guide to Tanzania.
In the afternoon we met with a delegate from the CEO Roundtable. It's a group of 40 CEOs from various industries that works with the government on creating a better business environment. Current major challenges are corruption and administrative bureaucracy. There is a slow process and it can take 145 days to receive a trade license. Many of us saw corruption as a major obstacle in investing in Tanzania.
There was so much we learn today and I enjoyed interacting with students. One student owns a tourist company that targets mostly Europeans and Russians. He also has a mango farm but can't export to western countries due to the size of the fruit. For now he exports to South Africa where they make fruit juices (perhaps Ceres).
Image: Post-graduate students of Dar and I.
Day 5: We were the News!
Monday 3/17/08
This evening we had a 4 minutes coverage on the Tanzanian local TV news. Enjoy (it's in Swahili).
Next day, we were still "famous" - an article in Mengi's newspaper The Guardian.
This evening we had a 4 minutes coverage on the Tanzanian local TV news. Enjoy (it's in Swahili).
Next day, we were still "famous" - an article in Mengi's newspaper The Guardian.
Day 5: National Microfinance Bank
Monday 3/17/08
After we left Mengi's IPP headquarters we headed to the National Microfinance Bank (NMB) for a meeting with its CEO Ben Christiaanse. NMB was privatized in 2005 and is now owned by Tanzanian government (51%) and by the Dutch bank (49%). They serve about 40,000 customers and have an extensive network. They have many project such as NMB Junior Account, NMB Bonus Account and NMB Personal Account. Christiaanse has been in Dar for a short time but seems to progress fast. In 6 months NMB created 400 jobs, introduced new programs and sponsor youth events (soccer team). They are improving their banking business through developing an IT system and training programs. They are connecting worlds of developed and developing countries by sending employees to Holland. These people experience western work environment, culture, level of customer service and return to Tanzania to share it with their colleagues.
In Tanzania if you want to do business you need to go into the agricultural market. NMB was successful in micro-financing program helping 100,000 farmers to increase their selling power.
Some challenges NMB faces: shortage of qualified employees, repayment rate and customer service. Customer service in particular is non-existent in Tanzania because of the socialism of the previous regime. It's not in people's minds to think that "the customer is always right."
Image: Ben Christiaanse and Bruce Bachenheimer
After we left Mengi's IPP headquarters we headed to the National Microfinance Bank (NMB) for a meeting with its CEO Ben Christiaanse. NMB was privatized in 2005 and is now owned by Tanzanian government (51%) and by the Dutch bank (49%). They serve about 40,000 customers and have an extensive network. They have many project such as NMB Junior Account, NMB Bonus Account and NMB Personal Account. Christiaanse has been in Dar for a short time but seems to progress fast. In 6 months NMB created 400 jobs, introduced new programs and sponsor youth events (soccer team). They are improving their banking business through developing an IT system and training programs. They are connecting worlds of developed and developing countries by sending employees to Holland. These people experience western work environment, culture, level of customer service and return to Tanzania to share it with their colleagues.In Tanzania if you want to do business you need to go into the agricultural market. NMB was successful in micro-financing program helping 100,000 farmers to increase their selling power.
Some challenges NMB faces: shortage of qualified employees, repayment rate and customer service. Customer service in particular is non-existent in Tanzania because of the socialism of the previous regime. It's not in people's minds to think that "the customer is always right."
Image: Ben Christiaanse and Bruce Bachenheimer
Day 5: I can, I must, I will!
Monday 3/17/08
This afternoon we were fortunate to meet Reginald Mengi. His speech was very inspirational for everyone and I must say it was a highlight of this trip. Mengi is a person of both worlds in Africa - poverty as well as success and wealth.
R. Mengi is Rupert Murdock of Tanzania. He is a Chairman of IPP Group who started his business with ballpoint pen assembly. Mengi had a difficult childhood, living in a mud hut with his family that also accommodated a cow, goats and even rats. A meal a day didn't come up easily, a pair of shoes was unheard off. He describes the time walking barefoot long distances to go to school, owning only one uniform that you wear during the day and wash and press at night, so you look clean next day. He himself says he comes from “the poor of the poor”. However, he emphasizes the difference between poverty of the country vs. poverty of people. He rephrases: “I was born in a very rich country. But people of Tanzania are poor.” For Mengi poverty was not a problem, it was a challenge. He says how important it is to be able to see it and convert problems to challenges. “When you see it as a problem it sits on your shoulders and pulls you down. But a challenge will stand in front of you and you'll try to overcome it.”
Mengi touched on many topics - poverty, religion, entrepreneurship, environment, happiness... He spoke with so much passion, energy and charisma and I must say he is very theatrical. I truly enjoyed his discussion and hope you'll get inspired as well. Enjoy the video!
This afternoon we were fortunate to meet Reginald Mengi. His speech was very inspirational for everyone and I must say it was a highlight of this trip. Mengi is a person of both worlds in Africa - poverty as well as success and wealth.R. Mengi is Rupert Murdock of Tanzania. He is a Chairman of IPP Group who started his business with ballpoint pen assembly. Mengi had a difficult childhood, living in a mud hut with his family that also accommodated a cow, goats and even rats. A meal a day didn't come up easily, a pair of shoes was unheard off. He describes the time walking barefoot long distances to go to school, owning only one uniform that you wear during the day and wash and press at night, so you look clean next day. He himself says he comes from “the poor of the poor”. However, he emphasizes the difference between poverty of the country vs. poverty of people. He rephrases: “I was born in a very rich country. But people of Tanzania are poor.” For Mengi poverty was not a problem, it was a challenge. He says how important it is to be able to see it and convert problems to challenges. “When you see it as a problem it sits on your shoulders and pulls you down. But a challenge will stand in front of you and you'll try to overcome it.”
Mengi touched on many topics - poverty, religion, entrepreneurship, environment, happiness... He spoke with so much passion, energy and charisma and I must say he is very theatrical. I truly enjoyed his discussion and hope you'll get inspired as well. Enjoy the video!
Day 5: Brainstorming
Monday 3/17/08
Before the day took off we had a 2-hour brief on updates of daily activities and brainstormed on entrepreneurship ideas. Discussions included improving customer service in hotel industry, carved furniture exports or training programs for various businesses that we saw so far.
We then headed for lunch at Holiday Inn and a meeting with R. Mengi.
Before the day took off we had a 2-hour brief on updates of daily activities and brainstormed on entrepreneurship ideas. Discussions included improving customer service in hotel industry, carved furniture exports or training programs for various businesses that we saw so far.We then headed for lunch at Holiday Inn and a meeting with R. Mengi.
Day 5: Fish Market
Monday 3/17/08
This morning some of us decided to explore the local fish market. The place was very busy, some people auctioning all types of fish and unusually colored crabs, others cleaning the fresh catch. We talked to a vendor about his business - he buys the fish from the fishermen and then actions it here. Like any other market you can find lots of food here, where locals go for breakfast/lunch (see image). There is an outdoor restaurant and I bought a fried rice dough (pamamantiria). It was delicious! Across from the fish market is another market where we found shells, more food vendors as well as charcoal and wood for burning. It was very hot and steamy.
Images: Charcoal and wood stand; Restaurant at the fish market.
This morning some of us decided to explore the local fish market. The place was very busy, some people auctioning all types of fish and unusually colored crabs, others cleaning the fresh catch. We talked to a vendor about his business - he buys the fish from the fishermen and then actions it here. Like any other market you can find lots of food here, where locals go for breakfast/lunch (see image). There is an outdoor restaurant and I bought a fried rice dough (pamamantiria). It was delicious! Across from the fish market is another market where we found shells, more food vendors as well as charcoal and wood for burning. It was very hot and steamy.
Images: Charcoal and wood stand; Restaurant at the fish market.
Day 4: Zanzibar
Sunday 3/16/08
This morning (7am) we caught a 2-hour ferry to Zanzibar. Although Zanzibar belongs to Tanzania you still need a passport (unless you speak fluent Swahili). We had a great time on a boat – conversing, taking pictures and making various plans for the island.
Images: Palace Museum - wooden staircase, building and a furniture room.
We took a tour of the Palace Museum, once a residence of the Sultan of Zanzibar. The palace is located in the historic Stone Town, a UNESCO’s World Heritage site. Despite the rich history the building and the nearby cemetery are neglected and in poor conditions mostly due to the lack of sufficient funding (a destiny of many other beautiful buildings on the island). The inside décor features carved furniture, crystal chandeliers and portraits of Sultan and his family. To my surprise they also displayed portraits of Sissi and Franz Joseph (the Austrian Empress and Emperor).
There is a book - Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar - an autobiography by a true Zanzibari princess Sayyida. I just ordered it.
We passed by the House of Wonders, where supposedly people were sacrificed and buried in the tall pillars; and continued walking further into the Stone Town. It’s full of shops, restaurants and pubs (one praising Zanzibar’s native Freddie Mercury which is ironic considering the 25-year punishment for being gay.) Not sure if it was the hot weather or street vendors attacking us to buy the local spices and arts or the views of the turquoise waters but we all wanted to go to the beach.
This morning (7am) we caught a 2-hour ferry to Zanzibar. Although Zanzibar belongs to Tanzania you still need a passport (unless you speak fluent Swahili). We had a great time on a boat – conversing, taking pictures and making various plans for the island.
Images: Palace Museum - wooden staircase, building and a furniture room.
We took a tour of the Palace Museum, once a residence of the Sultan of Zanzibar. The palace is located in the historic Stone Town, a UNESCO’s World Heritage site. Despite the rich history the building and the nearby cemetery are neglected and in poor conditions mostly due to the lack of sufficient funding (a destiny of many other beautiful buildings on the island). The inside décor features carved furniture, crystal chandeliers and portraits of Sultan and his family. To my surprise they also displayed portraits of Sissi and Franz Joseph (the Austrian Empress and Emperor).
There is a book - Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar - an autobiography by a true Zanzibari princess Sayyida. I just ordered it.
We passed by the House of Wonders, where supposedly people were sacrificed and buried in the tall pillars; and continued walking further into the Stone Town. It’s full of shops, restaurants and pubs (one praising Zanzibar’s native Freddie Mercury which is ironic considering the 25-year punishment for being gay.) Not sure if it was the hot weather or street vendors attacking us to buy the local spices and arts or the views of the turquoise waters but we all wanted to go to the beach.
Image: House of Wonders; Zanzibar's local food market.
Before leaving for Dar, A'Lynne, Rob and I went to the local food market for spices (I got some cardamon and vanilla coffee, and also colored red curry powder) and some gift shopping. I couldn't resist some of the local fabrics.
Before leaving for Dar, A'Lynne, Rob and I went to the local food market for spices (I got some cardamon and vanilla coffee, and also colored red curry powder) and some gift shopping. I couldn't resist some of the local fabrics.
Day 3: Meeting David Robinson and Daudi Mwakawago
Saturday 3/15/08
This afternoon, we met David Robinson and Ambassador Daudi Mwakawago. It was very informative and enjoyable (despite the broken a/c.)
David Robinson
David Robinson is a very handsome and a very tall man. (Genes of
Jackie Robinson perhaps?) I’ve been looking forward to meeting him and did some prior research on his career as a coffee farmer. (See Vanity Fair article) I even purchased coffee from his company based in New York - Sweet Unity Farms Coffee (a bit of a delay in distribution and I only received it after my return from Africa.)
David came with some of his children (some under 5 years old), gave them notebooks and pencils and begun his talk.
He talked about Mshikamano Farmers Group of 400 small coffee farmers based in south of Tanzania. The country’s GDP is 70% agriculture and cooperatives are quite common. David, knowing the culture and markets of both countries wants to export Tanzanian coffee to the US market. His 3 main challenges – 1) capital, 2) expertise and 3) organizational structure. He seems to have control over the supply of the value chain but is faced with challenges in differentiating himself in a competitive US market, the distribution channels and marketing. His agenda is to present the coffee under the private label - Sweet Unity Farms Coffee. His competitors? – Starbucks, and even bigger fish like P&G or Altria.
We discussed various topics - the local market demand (seems only 10% of Tanzanians drink coffee), designing attractive packaging, exporting possibilities to Ukraine, toll-roasting and E-commerce. David is looking for roasting companies (minimum 540lb) in the US that would also arrange packaging. He has quite a challenge!
Daudi Mwakawago
Our next speaker was Daudi Mwakawago, a former UN Ambassador and by the end of the trip we became very friendly. He was with us most of the time, visiting Reginaldi Mengi, Universtiy of Dar and other amazing places. He largely contributed to the success of this trip and I’m very thankful we got to know him.
Ambassador briefed us about his career at the office, Ministry of Industry and Trade, his time in Rome and the US as an ambassador and peace negotiations in Sierra Leone.
He emphasized 4 key strengths that differentiate Tanzania from other African countries:
1. Indigenous language –Swahili
2. No tribes wars
3. No Discrimination (chieftainships was abolished)
4. Leadership
Despite the fact that he is retired he remains very active. His favorite line: "I’m retired but not tired."
Later in the evening Ambassador joined us for dinner; amazing Indian food – naan bread, delicious shrimp pakoras and Kilimanjaro beer (although quite light to Slovak standards).
Images: D. Robinson and I; Bruce, Amb. Mwakawago & D. Robinson; Sweet Unity Farms postcard; Marina and Amb. Mwakawago
This afternoon, we met David Robinson and Ambassador Daudi Mwakawago. It was very informative and enjoyable (despite the broken a/c.)
David Robinson
David Robinson is a very handsome and a very tall man. (Genes of
Jackie Robinson perhaps?) I’ve been looking forward to meeting him and did some prior research on his career as a coffee farmer. (See Vanity Fair article) I even purchased coffee from his company based in New York - Sweet Unity Farms Coffee (a bit of a delay in distribution and I only received it after my return from Africa.)David came with some of his children (some under 5 years old), gave them notebooks and pencils and begun his talk.
He talked about Mshikamano Farmers Group of 400 small coffee farmers based in south of Tanzania. The country’s GDP is 70% agriculture and cooperatives are quite common. David, knowing the culture and markets of both countries wants to export Tanzanian coffee to the US market. His 3 main challenges – 1) capital, 2) expertise and 3) organizational structure. He seems to have control over the supply of the value chain but is faced with challenges in differentiating himself in a competitive US market, the distribution channels and marketing. His agenda is to present the coffee under the private label - Sweet Unity Farms Coffee. His competitors? – Starbucks, and even bigger fish like P&G or Altria.
We discussed various topics - the local market demand (seems only 10% of Tanzanians drink coffee), designing attractive packaging, exporting possibilities to Ukraine, toll-roasting and E-commerce. David is looking for roasting companies (minimum 540lb) in the US that would also arrange packaging. He has quite a challenge!Daudi Mwakawago
Our next speaker was Daudi Mwakawago, a former UN Ambassador and by the end of the trip we became very friendly. He was with us most of the time, visiting Reginaldi Mengi, Universtiy of Dar and other amazing places. He largely contributed to the success of this trip and I’m very thankful we got to know him.
Ambassador briefed us about his career at the office, Ministry of Industry and Trade, his time in Rome and the US as an ambassador and peace negotiations in Sierra Leone.
He emphasized 4 key strengths that differentiate Tanzania from other African countries:
1. Indigenous language –Swahili
2. No tribes wars
3. No Discrimination (chieftainships was abolished)
4. Leadership
Despite the fact that he is retired he remains very active. His favorite line: "I’m retired but not tired."
Later in the evening Ambassador joined us for dinner; amazing Indian food – naan bread, delicious shrimp pakoras and Kilimanjaro beer (although quite light to Slovak standards).
Images: D. Robinson and I; Bruce, Amb. Mwakawago & D. Robinson; Sweet Unity Farms postcard; Marina and Amb. Mwakawago
Day 3: City tour & Markets
Saturday 3/15/08
City Tour
After breakfast which shockingly also served a few south Indian dishes (Idlies, coconut chutney and Sambhar) we went for a bus tour, passing by the port, the City Hall, famous Askari (soldier) Monument from WWI - a key meeting point for many locals. We then headed north along the Indian Ocean to Msasani Peninsula. This area is filled with wealthy, spacious houses with swimming pools and gardens, and also a home to many embassies. We made a quick stop at a cliff overlooking the ocean, everyone running to take photos at the backdrop of turquoise waters and distant fishermen boats. The weather was gorgeous!
Image: At the Sea Cliff, A house (maybe an embassy) in Msasani Peninsula.
Tingatinga Arts
Next, we headed to the local art markets. The first place
–
Tingatinga Arts - consisted of shops some with an art school, where mostly male artists painted pieces from metal animals to African themed paintings and carvings. It had a feeling of a hand made mass production where artists were creating the same products over and over. I fell in love with a painting of a Maasai woman (see photo) but the artist didn’t like my price. (He wanted $300.) 50-75% cut is fairly normal and one can get a 28x38 inch painting for about 25,000 shillings (or $25).
Image: A painting of a Maasai Woman, An artist at Tingatinga Arts
Makonde Craft Village
Our second stop was at the Mwenge market - the center for the Makonde wooden works where most tourists come to buy wooden carved sculptures made of mpingo (darkwood).
They also have small furniture e.g. trunks, chairs even chessboard tables. Makonde people are known to be the finest traditional sculptures in east Africa. The village was full of shops with male carvers (no females in this industry) working at the back. Vendors inviting us with a smile and shouting “Karibu” were competing with other sellers for our attention. “Please come in. No charge for looking.” More carvers were settled in the center of the village under an open tent and I was able to get a few shots without them noticing. (They don’t let you take pictures and ask you to pay). The conditions were poor - dusty, very hot and dirty - but I also noticed a carver using a cell phone.
Towards the end my negotiating skills were coming back and I managed to buy couple of paintings and sculptures. They are stunning!
A good advice from our local driver Steve: “Stick with the 10.”
Images: Professor in action, Carver working at the Mwenge Market, Carver with a cellphone.
We also stopped at a shopping mall that was quite modern with a supermarket, boutiques, banks and ATMs (long lines because people just got paid and there were only 1 or 2 ATMs). Anna and I went to the bank to exchange money and were shocked when a teller refused to give Anna the exact amount. Reason? No coins in her registry.
I saw a jewelry shop that carried Tanzanite stones, but there was no time. However, the search for a blue Tanzanite will continue.
City Tour
After breakfast which shockingly also served a few south Indian dishes (Idlies, coconut chutney and Sambhar) we went for a bus tour, passing by the port, the City Hall, famous Askari (soldier) Monument from WWI - a key meeting point for many locals. We then headed north along the Indian Ocean to Msasani Peninsula. This area is filled with wealthy, spacious houses with swimming pools and gardens, and also a home to many embassies. We made a quick stop at a cliff overlooking the ocean, everyone running to take photos at the backdrop of turquoise waters and distant fishermen boats. The weather was gorgeous!
Image: At the Sea Cliff, A house (maybe an embassy) in Msasani Peninsula.
Tingatinga Arts
Next, we headed to the local art markets. The first place
–
Tingatinga Arts - consisted of shops some with an art school, where mostly male artists painted pieces from metal animals to African themed paintings and carvings. It had a feeling of a hand made mass production where artists were creating the same products over and over. I fell in love with a painting of a Maasai woman (see photo) but the artist didn’t like my price. (He wanted $300.) 50-75% cut is fairly normal and one can get a 28x38 inch painting for about 25,000 shillings (or $25).Image: A painting of a Maasai Woman, An artist at Tingatinga Arts
Makonde Craft Village
Our second stop was at the Mwenge market - the center for the Makonde wooden works where most tourists come to buy wooden carved sculptures made of mpingo (darkwood).
They also have small furniture e.g. trunks, chairs even chessboard tables. Makonde people are known to be the finest traditional sculptures in east Africa. The village was full of shops with male carvers (no females in this industry) working at the back. Vendors inviting us with a smile and shouting “Karibu” were competing with other sellers for our attention. “Please come in. No charge for looking.” More carvers were settled in the center of the village under an open tent and I was able to get a few shots without them noticing. (They don’t let you take pictures and ask you to pay). The conditions were poor - dusty, very hot and dirty - but I also noticed a carver using a cell phone.Towards the end my negotiating skills were coming back and I managed to buy couple of paintings and sculptures. They are stunning!
A good advice from our local driver Steve: “Stick with the 10.”
Images: Professor in action, Carver working at the Mwenge Market, Carver with a cellphone.
We also stopped at a shopping mall that was quite modern with a supermarket, boutiques, banks and ATMs (long lines because people just got paid and there were only 1 or 2 ATMs). Anna and I went to the bank to exchange money and were shocked when a teller refused to give Anna the exact amount. Reason? No coins in her registry.
I saw a jewelry shop that carried Tanzanite stones, but there was no time. However, the search for a blue Tanzanite will continue.
Day 2: Arrive in Dar es Salaam
Friday 3/14/08
The flight to Dar es Salaam was less comfortable but we all were very excited about our final destination. Julius Nyerere International Airport in Dar es Salaam is small and it was clear the luggage facilities were not quite well equipped to handle the increasing traffic
(no A/C and perhaps too many luggage porters). Rumit from Safari Ventures was already waiting to take us to the New Africa Hotel. It’s a western hotel with all necessities – electricity, hot water and clean rooms – as well as luxuries – pool, gym, casino, bars and restaurants. We got a room with a view of the pool. After a quick shower my roommate Anna, Alex and I went for a short (a very short) walk around the hotel. We tried to find the rest of our team who left earlier but instead found ourselves at the entrance of Hotel Kilimanjaro where President Bush stayed a few weeks ago. People on the streets were curious where we’re from, praised Bush and talked about Obama and Kenya’s Senator beer. I felt a bit disoriented not carrying a map and later in the evening studied the sites of the city. (See my notes on the map of Dar es Salaam). Tonight, we all dined at the hotel in the Bandari Grill Restaurant. The menu had continental dishes (as well as prices) from Italian to Indian. I had shrimp with shitakee mushroom rice, was OK. I wanted to taste local cuisine.
Images: Lutheran Church across from the hotel, Pool view from our room and our First Dinner.
The flight to Dar es Salaam was less comfortable but we all were very excited about our final destination. Julius Nyerere International Airport in Dar es Salaam is small and it was clear the luggage facilities were not quite well equipped to handle the increasing traffic
(no A/C and perhaps too many luggage porters). Rumit from Safari Ventures was already waiting to take us to the New Africa Hotel. It’s a western hotel with all necessities – electricity, hot water and clean rooms – as well as luxuries – pool, gym, casino, bars and restaurants. We got a room with a view of the pool. After a quick shower my roommate Anna, Alex and I went for a short (a very short) walk around the hotel. We tried to find the rest of our team who left earlier but instead found ourselves at the entrance of Hotel Kilimanjaro where President Bush stayed a few weeks ago. People on the streets were curious where we’re from, praised Bush and talked about Obama and Kenya’s Senator beer. I felt a bit disoriented not carrying a map and later in the evening studied the sites of the city. (See my notes on the map of Dar es Salaam). Tonight, we all dined at the hotel in the Bandari Grill Restaurant. The menu had continental dishes (as well as prices) from Italian to Indian. I had shrimp with shitakee mushroom rice, was OK. I wanted to taste local cuisine.
Images: Lutheran Church across from the hotel, Pool view from our room and our First Dinner.
Day 1: Departure for Dar es Salaam
Thursday 3/13/08Today we left from JFK for Dar es Salaam with a stop over in Dubai. The flight was pretty comfortable mostly due to the state of art treatments by the Emirates Airline. I travel extensively but it’s been a while since I enjoyed a flight so much. Very pleasant and helpful staff, not to mention how beautiful the flight attendants looked in their uniforms, upscale interactive entertainment system, and delicious food in a stylish serving even in economy class puts Emirates on my top airline list. Plus I’ll stop in Dubai any day!
Image: Still looking fresh and excited even after a 13 hour flight to Dubai.
Preparations
All my travel preparations are usually the same – last minute shopping (ladies check out boutiques on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn Maleeka & Michelle NY), getting hair done (I opted for twists done at Mom's shop in Jamaica Queens) and barely meeting deadlines. This time is no different but a valid passport with visas, some cash and credit cards should take care of the rest.
Images: In India, Antarctica & Italy
Images: In India, Antarctica & Italy
How it all Started
I love traveling and every year my goal is to explore a new destination. Reading journals, travel books, talking to people always inspires me to search for unusual places. Last year, I visited an annual New York Travel Show and spoke to an African guy about climbing the Mount Kilimanjaro. Every season he takes tourists through various trails, some harder than others, to the summit. I immediately wanted to go!!!
My trip to Kilimanjaro hasn’t happened yet, but I did manage to travel to East Africa - particularly Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar in Tanzania. This time I traveled as an MBA student through an international field study trip with the focus on social entrepreneurship. It was organized by Pace University, particularly professor Bruce Bachenheimer, professor Richard Otto, and a Pace alumnus Rumit Mehta from Safari Ventures who made this trip happen. So Karibu in my Tanganyika!!!
My trip to Kilimanjaro hasn’t happened yet, but I did manage to travel to East Africa - particularly Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar in Tanzania. This time I traveled as an MBA student through an international field study trip with the focus on social entrepreneurship. It was organized by Pace University, particularly professor Bruce Bachenheimer, professor Richard Otto, and a Pace alumnus Rumit Mehta from Safari Ventures who made this trip happen. So Karibu in my Tanganyika!!!
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